I had some troubles compiling git 2.0 under cygwin. I present you with a very dirty hack to do so. Proper patch will probably follow.
Did I mention that the hack is dirty and will make your hands burn if you’re gonna type it in ?
git clone https://github.com/git/git.git
git checkout v2.0.1
# so far so good...
make: /home/cplotnicki/dev/git/perl/0: Command not found
perl.mak:375: recipe for target 'blib/lib/.exists' failed
make: *** [blib/lib/.exists] Error 127
Makefile:16: recipe for target 'all' failed
make: *** [all] Error 2
Makefile:1653: recipe for target 'all' failed
make: *** [all] Error 2
Want perl as ’0′ ? Well, why not. Here you are:
# link perl as 0 to some directory that is in your path
ln -s /usr/bin/perl ~/tools/0
# also link here, obviously.
# 'perl' is a direct subdir for your git checkout
ln -s /usr/bin/perl perl/0
make # should now compile
# cygwin's permission scheme is very peculiar
# here, have a dirty hack for your default install
# where there is no su or sudo
chmod a+rwX -R /usr/local/share/man/man3
chmod a+rwX -R /usr/local/lib/perl5/site_perl
# should display 2.0.1.
# update man pages' cache manually
Remember my sunpowered Pi installation on the balcony ?
The only indication I had, since recently, on how well the system is doing was an LED blinking red when battery was low. Not really helpful in making predictions or making measurements over the time. I’ve searched for simple ADC solution to hook up into Pi and allow for some voltage and power measurements. I’ve decided on ADC Pi, as it seemed very straightforward in its design and also comes with example python code.
Did I say Python ?!
I must admit that it is not at the top of my favourite languages list.
But then I had fun. It turned out that Python has excellent graph plotting library as well as it is very well equipped with general purpose functions and hardware specific stuff support, like i2c.
But back to the system design. The panel itself can generate up to about 30V under no load. Battery is 12V nominal but can get to 14.5V when charging, the specs say. ADC Pi however, can measure up to 5V. You have some resistors laying around you say ?
Voltage divider it is. For current measurement I’ve used hall effect sensor module from Pololu.
Summarising, I have 8 measurement lines, hooked up as follows:
voltage of the power line from Pi to current sensor
regulated 12V rail voltage
regulated 5V rail voltage
current sensor reading voltage
It turned out that for the current measurement to be accurate I can’t trust the voltage coming from the Pi to be stable.
I actually measure that and use that to calculate the real reading.
The docs round the hall sensor are not that obvious at the first sight, so here’s the formula I came up with, for the greater good:
current = (measured_sensor_voltage - (voltage_powering_sensor/2))/0.185
Finally, sprinkle all of the above with some python and get the following: Looking at this you can spot 2 things. One – April the 5th was supercloudy superrainy and the battery did not get much charge.
And the second being that on the average day the battery gets to the full capacity near the half of the sunny period.
This is the data I was after !
I think this means that I can add more batteries to the system and on a sunny day they will get filled up and this should suffice for couple of rainy days in a row.
Here, get some photos as the bonus, also:
TODOs, for me, and everyone else, to remember that nothing is ever finished in the realm of hobby stuff:
add graph for power usage
would be super cool to add the weather data to the graphs
Remember my NASstuff ? It turned out great ! Very reliable storage, I had a disk failure once and haven’t noticed for some time because all the files were just there. Hardware enhanced virtualization is another great stuff. I ended up migrating all my of infrastructure there, each service in separate virtual machine; email, calendar, contacts, tor node and such. Only caveat ? Power consumption. This setup just eats Watts. About 50W constant power usage is not something you want to have turned on 24h/day.
One such day I had a realization that this giant ball of plasma that is hanging out there might be of some use. One side of my balcony is to the south somewhat, gets lots of sunshine no matter whether it’s morning or evening. Why not exploit that ?
That’s how my first solarpowered server setup was born. Enjoy the photos !
Also please find upgrade options and general notes after the break !
Setup itself consists of:
144W solar panel
33Ah 12V battery
trusty old WRT54GL
Raspberry Pi model B
12V and 5V step up/step down converters. Don’t use linear converters, especially for the 5V rail. As these will give you the 5V by dissipating the difference from 12V directly onto their heatsinks, huge power loses.
around one hundred M3 hexhead screws with nuts and washers. yup.
The router acts as wireless bridge to my home WiFi network, there are no cables running from inside the house to the balcony. Router and raspi use about 8W total. It is winter in here now and this seems to be holding nicely, panel being able to charge the battery for the night during relatively short day, even if the weather is bad. However, I want more computing power there and this setup does not seem to be very scalable. Another raspi model B means another 4W constant power usage. I estimate the whole thing will start loosing power during the night with about 15W constant consumption. Which is okay for stuff like email server, but not really for blog or other sites.
Hence my first idea for improvement: discard router and change for the separate raspis, model A, with wireless network cards each. Should be much better.
Some general notes:
Use equipment specifically designed for DC. You want to disconnect the solar panel or battery sometimes. To be able to to that without that fancy sparks show you need proper DC switch able to handle high currents. AC switches as any other equipment dragged from AC land are not really a choice. If you use AC mains switch to switch high current DC you might end up with nice weld in place of your switch. Same for fuses.
My ability to cut acrylic to line is nonexistent. Probably maybe use better tools ? Or even, since I now know how the box should be cut – just order pieces for box 2.0 cut to size already.
Same for my ability to make stuff look nice and clean
I like the look of bare PCBs inside of transparent box though
The box itself seems to be holding up nicely against below zero temperatures as well as rain.
Air flow is nice, nothing is heating up. Air enters from the bottom, heats up a bit and moves up. Goes through the holes on the left, into the funnel and exist on the right. Water does not enter as there is pretty steep slope there.
Watch for SD card corruption. Most often, the cause is having 5V not really being 5V. Raspi does not really like lower voltages. One preventive measure would be not to use some cheap voltage converters. Another is to mount SD card with very conservative options. I use
Make sure your electronic components are rated for -40C to +80C
I’m a bit worried of battery being in such proximity to the airco unit. We’ll see in the summer whether it needs relocation, for now the unit is completely powered off.
mountain climbing equipment comes in handy when hanging stuff from your balcony
most pressing: get the power usage down by changing to model A + wifi card
add monitoring, something like ADC connected to raspi’s GPIO ports, gathering voltages all across. I would like to get readings on: solar panel voltage, battery voltage, 5V rail actual voltage and the whole system power usage at least